Marrakech Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Eat, and Get The Best Pictures

Marrakech is a city that left me completely speechless, in both its beauty and its intense juxtaposition. The 1000 year hold city is home to bustling souks and colourful spice markets; luxurious hotels and fabulous restaurants; women who ride motorbikes with children in hand and craftsmen who are masters in their art; kind, warm people, who welcome visitors.

However, in the same breath, one must also mention the poverty that’s quite jarring. I’ve spent a considerable portion of my life in Asia. I’ve lived in Bangladesh and traveled to Thailand, Pakistan and Vietnam where poverty is undeniably prevalent. However, the difference between these countries and Marrakech is that Marrakech doesn’t have a ‘gated community’ which houses only the wealthiest. In Marrakech, a mansion and shanty stand beside one another, making the discrepancy in wealth that much more pronounced.

Having prefaced with all of this, you may be wondering “Is Marrakech as beautiful as Instagram paints it to be?”. And the answer is yes. But go with realistic expectations. Marrakech is insanely beautiful, but it’s also a developing country. This means that your experience in Marrakech will not be the same as your experience in a European country.

Dress: Hello Molly

Although I was told by several of my friends that I’d face a bit of culture shock, I didn’t give it much thought. I figured that since I’d lived in a developing country and had experience traveling around Asia, Marrakech would hardly be a surprise. I was wrong.

As soon as I arrived in the medina, my driver handed my luggage over to a man, and I was told to follow him. You can imagine this being slightly confusing for a woman in a completely new country at night. Marrakech is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. The streets are bustling with people, populated by pedestrians, motorcyclists, and shops alike. I was lead through these streets into a doorway behind which was an oasis I never expected. This oasis was my first hotel, a riad (details of which I’ll share below).

After the initial culture shock, I fell in love with Marrakech. The only way I can possibly describe it to someone who’s never been is by comparing it to Agrabah in Aladdin. It’s bursting with colour and energy, and is a city that everyone should visit at least once. So without further ado, let’s get into my guide!

• Marrakech is split into two parts: the Medina, which is the old town, and everything outside the Medina, which is the ‘new’ Marrakech
• The Medina is where you will find all the souks, riads, and restaurants that you typically see on Instagram
• Make sure you carry cash, especially if you’re looking to shop at the souks – they don’t accept credit cards at all
• Morocco is a Muslim country, so refrain from wearing tiny shorts or dresses while roaming around the souks
• The best way to get around the Medina is to walk, cabs are difficult to find and take double the time to get you to your destination
• Use Google Maps to guide you, but don’t follow the directions exactly, instead,map out your own route
• Do not engage with the children who try to give you directions on the streets, they’ll just ask for money later
• Avoid tap water, it isn’t safe

Where to stay
While in Marrakech, you have the option to live in a riad or a luxury hotel. A riad is a traditional Moroccan home marked by a courtyard right in the centre of the property. Riads are typically quite small, with 10-15 rooms and are located inside the Medina. Luxury hotels, because of their sheer size, are located outside the Medina. I decided to split my time between a riad and a luxury hotel to get a holistic experience.

Riad Karmela Princesse
Riad Karmela was the oasis amidst the chaos that first began my love affair with the city. The owner, Joel, actually owns three riads, two of which I experienced firsthand. Riad Karmela was the first riad that Joel acquired, the decor is traditional (and absolutely stunning, I might add. Across from it is Riad Karmela Princesse, which is slightly more modern but still punctuated by beautiful colours and traditional Moroccan tile work.

I stayed at Riad Princesse Karmela, where my room was truly fit for a queen. I stayed in the Caftan D’Or Suite which left me speechless the minute I walked in. It’s a room that can actually house 3 people – it has a king sized bed on the first floor and another bed on the second floor (yes there’s a second floor).

Guests can choose to eat breakfast at either riad. The menu is almost identical, so it really comes down to decor preference. You can also choose to have dinner at the in-house restaurants that offer a set menu that changes daily.

Jumpsuit: Mister Zimi

Riad Karmela Princesse was the perfect introduction to Marrakech. It allowed me to have a traditional experience while still enjoying the luxuries of a 5 star boutique hotel. I highly recommend you book a stay here.

La Sultana Marrakech
Where do I even begin? I thought I knew luxury, but it has been completely redefined after my experience at La Sultana Marrakech. I’ll never forget my initial reaction of feeling like I’d literally arrived in paradise after laying eyes on the stunning pool.

Left: Shilla The Label shorts and top | Right: Lovers + Friends top and skirt

Located just outside the Medina, La Sultana Marrakech has quite an unassuming entrance. However, as I was lead into the hotel, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, I felt like I’d arrived in a different place entirely. Tranquil, luxurious, and opulent are some of the words I’d use to describe this stunning property. It’s home to a beautiful hammam and a rooftop that offers sweeping views of the city.

Dress: J.O.A. (similar here and here)

The hotel is composed of seven different riads, all decorated differently. But despite its numerous rooms, you always feel like you have the whole place to yourself. My room was in the Moorish riad. Guys, this room was no joke. It was big, and had a bathroom which was almost the same size as the room itself.

The breakfast buffet here is no joke. It’s served right by the pool and offers variety without compromising on quality. I’m not a big fan of buffets, but this one was an exception. Everything I ate was delicious. What I loved was that there were a lot of healthy options. My favourite thing was the date and orange blossom spread which is unlike anything I’ve had.

If you’re looking to bask in complete and utter luxury, La Sultana is the hotel for you.

Where to eat
While in Marrakech, it’s almost mandatory to eat like royalty. And believe me, you’ll have ample opportunity to do so at the amazing restaurants that the city offers.

La Famille
Vegetarian food gets a whole new meaning at La Famille. This beautiful restaurant reminded me so much of Tulum. The decor is stunning, no seriously, I wanted to move in. And the food is incredible. It’s without a doubt, some of the best vegetarian food I’ve had. Light, fresh, and ridiculously affordable. Don’t consider skipping out on dessert. And when you order it, don’t consider sharing it with a friend. Also, make a reservation here, they only do two rounds of seating in the afternoon and it is packed.

Nomad
No restaurant was as highly recommended to me as Nomad. I made a reservation well in advance to ensure I got a table at the restaurant’s famous rooftop. The food here was top notch. I can totally see why people rave about it. It’s not to be missed during a trip to Marrakech.

Riad Be Marrakech
This beautiful riad offers a set menu at lunchtime which I highly suggest you try. The tagine here was delicious, as were the briouats. I actually ended up spending a few hours here because the pool is just so pretty and relaxing! It’s the perfect escape from the Moroccan sun.

Cafe des Epices
From the same owners as Nomade, Cafe des Epices also offers a beautiful view of the city. I stopped by just for tea as opposed to a full meal, but loved the vibe and service.

Zwin Zwin Cafe
This cafe was recommended to me by a reader, and I’m so glad I tried it! It has a beautiful rooftop and is a great option for lunch.

Bonus: Le Jardin
I went to Le Jardin for dinner and left my camera in my hotel. This restaurant is absolutely magical. It’s in a courtyard surrounded by fairy lights and has some of the best food you’ll eat. Try everything on the menu, you won’t regret it.

What to do

• Come with an empty suitcase just for all the beautiful things you can buy at the souks – the craftsmanship in Morocco is remarkable
• When shopping at the souk, make sure you haggle for a good deal
• Avoid Jamaa El-Fna as it is full of exploited animals, and people who are looking to haggle tourists
• When visiting Palais Bahia, keep in mind that the tickets are 10 dirhams and that they don’t accept credit card or offer change
• The Insta-famous Ben Youssef Madrasa is currently closed for renovations – it’s said to reopen in 2 to 3 years
• Spend a day at one of the hammams – Es Saadi and La Sultana are great options