Zermatt was part 2 of my winter Eurotrip. After spending a few days in Megeve, we drove to Zermatt, which is known to be a skier’s paradise. I thought I’d seen proper snow last year when I went to St. Moritz, but Zermatt put everything to shame. I’ve never seen such epic blankets of snow! Before we get into all the details, here are the basics:
- Zermatt is closer to Geneva, but you can still easily get there from Zurich.
- I find driving to be the best option – I’m sure there are trains, but with luggage and all, it’s just easier to drive.
- There are no cars in Zermatt. So if you’re driving, you have to park outside Zermatt in Taschen and a taxi will drive you into the edge of the town. From there, your hotel will pick you up with an electric car.
- Zermatt town is TINY and very underwhelming. The action happens on the mountains, which more than makes up for the underwhelming town.
- You’re actually at a disadvantage if you can’t ski because most of the great restaurants are all apres-ski and the easiest way to access them is by skiing.
- If you plan on getting ski/snowboard lessons, the price is about 300ish CHF for a full day with a private instructor.
- A ski pass is about 80 CHF for the day. This will give you access to the Gornergrat Express, which takes you up and down the mountain. In terms of ski runs, Zermatt has so many that you’ll need a full week to hit them all.
- If you don’t ski but want to check out the top of the mountain, a roundtrip ticket on the Gornergrat is about 80 CHF. However, if you don’t want to go all the way to the top (there’s a bunch of stops), it’s cheaper.
Where to Stay
So Zermatt is a place unlike others I’ve been to. While Gstaad, St. Moritz and Megeve all have a great scene within the town, Zermatt is a totally different story. Initially when I arrived in Zermatt, I was a little nervous about my hotel, Riffelalp Resort 222m, being located on the mountain. Most hotels are in Zermatt town, and I thought maybe I’d be missing out on what the town has to offer. But after spending a couple of hours in the town, I felt like I’d exhausted everything it had to offer and was ready to go up to my hotel and see what the scene was on the mountains. I’d intended to come back down if I was bored, but once I got up there, I literally never left.
You have to get on the Gornergrat Express to get to Riffelalp Resort, I believe the stop is Riffelalp. From there, you can either walk to the hotel (5 minutes), or take the hotel’s snowmobile (there’s a snowmobile driver, and it takes about a minute). I chose the latter option upon arriving and it was SO fun, but I did walk to and from the station later on.
Riffelalp Resort is everything you’d want from a 5 star ski hotel. It’s chic, cozy, and will make you want to stay for the rest of your life. It houses 3 restaurants, a bar, and a wine bar. And the food is to die for, but more on that later. In terms of interior, think luxe cabin vibes. Except not a cabin because it’s the size of a castle. The rooms are huge, you can easily stay for a week, and have every amenity you can possibly imagine. My room had a terrace area and a view of the Matterhorn which I couldn’t believe. It was like seeing the Toblerone package come to life!
The hotel itself is known for its spa, which really is special. It’s the most extensive spa I’ve ever been to. First of all, it’s the highest spa in Europe. It’s a pretty surreal experience to swim in the outdoor pool and have the Matterhorn staring right at you. Aside from the outdoor pool, there’s also an indoor pool, two different kinds of saunas (my favourite was the organic one), steam bath, a cave with a steam bath, a Grotto with a waterfall, and treatments like massages, etc. I’m telling you, if you’re looking to completely unwind, this is the hotel you should be staying at.
The staff were incredible. So you know sometimes when you stay at these big fancy hotels, the staff can have this holier than thou attitude? You know what I’m talking about. I cannot stand it. Well not here. Here, the staff are super helpful, warm, and always had a smile on their face.
So if you’re like me, staying in a resort can feel boring. But in a place like Zermatt, the whole point is to have a great base to go do winter sports. Riffelalp Resort is the ideal place for anyone who’s a skiier/snowboarder. For one, the hotel is a ski-in, ski-out hotel. As in, you can walk to the slope and just start skiing. It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen. Right beside the hotel is a great apres ski restaurant (more on that later), and there’s a rental shop attached to the hotel so it’s super convenient.
Even though I don’t know how to ski (but it’s my goal to learn this year), I found that for 2 days, I was far from bored. I’d spend a few hours at the spa, and then take my laptop to their bar and work. The bar has a beautiful view of the Matterhorn and has great coffee and a really cozy feel. The hotel also had a billiard room and bowling alley.
This is a hotel you can keep coming back to and never get tired of. I will for sure be back.
Where To Eat
The best places for eating, drinking and general merrymaking are apres-ski spots on different mountains. So I was actually quite happy that my hotel, Riffelalp Resort 2222m was located high up on a mountain. I only spent an afternoon in Zermatt town, the rest of my time was spent on the actual mountain. Here are my recommendations of where to eat:
Ristorante Al Bosco: an Italian restaurant that’s part of the Riffelalp Resort. The food here is inanely good. I recommend staying away from the pizza and going for the pasta instead. The risotto was one of the best I’ve ever had.
Restaurant Alexandre: This is the hotel restaurant where guests have breakfast. So the breakfast spread at the hotel is truly impressive. I also went here for dinner one night and was so impressed with the food. I had a pasta dish here as well, and it blew me away. And their desserts are next level.
Zermatterstubli: This little restaurant, located in Zermatt town has great fondue. It’s very cozy and the staff were lovely.
Stefanie’s Creperie: Known for its crepes which are fabulous. This too can be found in Zermatt town. Get ready to wait though, there’s always a line.
Alphitta: Located a 5 minute walk from Riffelalp Resort, this apres-ski place is so great. The food is amazing, the atmosphere is lively and I loved the staff. They just seemed excited to have everyone there. Oh and they have two resident dogs that are super friendly and cute.
What To Do
Zermatt is a skiier’s paradise. Here’s what you can do:
- Walk around Zermatt town and go shopping.
- Any and all snowsports that you can imagine.
- Enjoy the apres-ski spots.
- Take the Gornergrat Express to the top of the mountain and check out the view. Zermatt is very picturesque.
- Spend time at a spa and just reconnect with yourself. Switzerland is known for its spas, so hotels there take it seriously!
PS – if you’re into skiing, don’t forget to check out my guide to Gstaad and St. Moritz.